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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.